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Sunday, May 26, 2013


We are now slightly over half way through our hike.  I thought it might be good to reflect a bit on how it has gone so far.  Because we are halfway, I'm going to use the device of a halftime sports show, similar to those on the football and soccer games.  I'm imagining a conversation between Chris Berman of ESPN sports and a Professional Spanish hiker we will name Javier, as they analyze the performance of Mike and Linda so far:

Chris Berman:  "Well, Javier, that was an incredible 280 miles of hiking!  The Fawkes's endured some extremely challenging conditions including snow, rain, sleet, hail, howling winds and even a few sunny days.  The trail conditions deteriorated along with the weather, making for some pretty difficult hiking.  What has impressed you so far Javier?"

Javier:  "Well, first, you are correct about the conditions Chris. In all my years living and hiking in Spain, we have not seen this type of situation in May.  This caught everybody by surprise.   I have been impressed by a couple of key factors Chris.  First, they put together a great overall game plan. It is clear that they spent a lot of time preparing by getting the right equipment, planning their schedule, etc.  As always with these two, Linda is clearly the backbone of the partnership, and the planning and preparation she did has paid huge dividends throughout the hike.

Chris:  How about that visit to Barcelona?  It sure seemed they enjoyed that.

Javier:  The 2 day stopover in Barcelona to visit their good friends Joan and Esther and then that fabulous Sunday they spent with Ana Munoz and her family,  got the whole experience off to a great start.  I think that really helped them endure the grueling weeks to come.

Chris: "Javier, you know I like to eat.  That paella they had at Carlos and Borja's place looked terrific."

Javier: "Paella is a specialty dish here in Spain, and Carlos was at the top of his game that day!  The next thing that impressed me was the way they were able to overcome some of the health issues.  After days 3 and 4 of this hike, I wasn't sure they would be able to on.  Both of them suffered some big set backs.  Chris, did you see that blister that Mike got on the bottom of his left foot on day 3?  As we would say here in Spain, that thing was half the size of Texas!"

Chris: "I have seen photos of that foot since then, and it is amazing how it has healed over into a hardened mess.  It looks like the well worn linoleum of the floor of a New York City dinner I like to eat at!"

Javier:  "You are right about that Chris.  You probably know that Mike also has two toenails that are totally black, and are in the process of falling off.  But, Linda's story is even more dramatic.  She also suffered her own foot problems and very well will lose a toenail herself.  And, she has a large blister as well.  As we would say here in Spain, it is probably half the size of Idaho!  More dramatic, was the fall she suffered in day 4, resulting in some pretty severe cuts and bruises to her hands, arms and legs. "

Chris:  "There was some controversy about that fall.  It was reported in the press here that two Italian guys had been stalking Linda.  Any truth to that rumor?"

Javier:  "We have not been able to substantiate that rumor Chris.  While it is true that there are indeed Italians out here on the Camino, we have not been able to link any of them to Linda's fall.  And of course there are other rumors out here that Linda was simply trying to take care of personal business if you know what I mean...."

Chris: "Well, it is indeed impressive to see how they have been able to shake those injuries off and continue forward.  What do you think they didn't do so well Javier?"

Javier:  "Chris, it is clear that they did an excellent job of planning for this journey from the standpoint of equipment, logistics, etc.  While both of them are in reasonably good physical shape, it is also clear that they vastly underestimated the physical challenges of this hike.  For example, prior to arriving in Spain, they had not done even one hike with a backpack.  Hiking with 20 pounds on your back is very different and requires training.  They also were not well prepared for the trail conditions, including rocks and uneven surfaces.  This is a mistake we see over and over again from the Americans who come over here.  For most Europeans, hiking and backpacking is a part of growing up.

Chris: "Who is the MVP of the first half?"

Javier: "Well, I have a two part answer to that one Chris.  The first is very obvious, and it's Linda.  As I mentioned previously, she is the backbone of this relationship, and makes sure everything works.  But in addition to the traditional strength she brings, her excellent social skills and command of Spanish have served her well on this trip.  The second answer to the MVP question is perhaps less obvious, but also important, and that is ibuprofen!  You might not know this Chris, but here in Spain, ibuprofen is sold in 600 mg capsules.  In the USA, the maximum size is 200 mg.  Also here in Spain, ibuprofen is sold in gel form.  The Fawkes' have wisely exploited these opportunities to their advantage!"

Chris: "Any advice for the Fawkes' on the second half of the hike?"

Javier:  "Well, as we say here in Spain, "poco a poco" which basically means little by little.  What I mean by this is that you just have to take one step at a time and not get in a hurry.  Also, the geography will get more hilly and with mountains this next few weeks, so they will have to adjust to those changes.  And continue to enjoy the social part of the hike.  They have thrived in the social environment of the hike and this has served them well.  How about you Chris, any advice from your side?"

Chris:  "Well, Mike should stay away from the Mormon jokes.  The South Park guys already did that with the Broadway play, and they did it much better.  Mike should stick with what he does best- bashing the French!"
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I would like to close out this segment by reprinting a poem that my good friend Michael Dubilier sent as an inspiration for the last portion of this hike.  I think it is very appropriate:

Roethke
The Waking
I wake to sleep, and take my waking slow.
I feel my fate in what I cannot fear.
I learn by going where I have to go.
We think by feeling. What is there to know?
I hear my being dance from ear to ear.
I wake to sleep, and take my waking slow.
Of those so close beside me, which are you?
God bless the Ground! I shall walk softly there,
And learn by going where I have to go.
Light takes the Tree; but who can tell us how?
The lowly worm climbs up a winding stair;
I wake to sleep, and take my waking slow.
Great Nature has another thing to do
To you and me, so take the lively air,
And, lovely, learn by going where to go.
This shaking keeps me steady. I should know.
What falls away is always. And is near.
I wake to sleep, and take my waking slow.
I learn by going where I have to go. 

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